Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Mt. Shasta glaciers, Hotlum-Wintun Ridge


October 17-18th

I left Sacramento loaded up with the appropriate supplies around 8:30pm. Getting to the Brewer Creek trailhead is not very straightforward and at least an hour drive off of I-5 (30-40min of which are on dirt roads). If you are approaching the mountain from the southwest head east on Hwy 89 towards McCloud, 3 miles after passing through central McCloud turn left on to Pilgrim Creek Rd (Forest rte 13), 7 miles later turn left onto Military Pass Rd (Forest rte 19) you’ll be on this road for around 13 miles, at most intersections stay left. There are signs every now and then that will point you in the right direction. The later half of the dirt road is pretty rough with ruts and large rocks however I was able to make it to the trail head in a ford focus. (I have however been stopped by unexpected snow banks before when hiking for Ash Creek Falls)

I started hiking between 1 and 2am. It was a clear night and the moon had not quite risen; it was not too cold and there was zero wind. I headed south for about 45min in the shelter of the trees until I came to a clearing with a magnificent moonlit view of the eastern face of Mt. Shasta.

Although there was only a quarter of the moon showing it was enough light that combined with the reflective nature of the snow I no longer needed my headlamp. I continued making my way up the mountain picking my route in an effort to be as direct as possible yet avoid areas that appeared to be prone to rock fall.

A small portion of the Hotlum Glacier
At some point I had to put on crampons, and not too long after, a helmet and my ice axe. By the moonlight I could just barely make out an area of snow ahead that didn’t quite look normal, I took a long exposure shot with my camera and realized that I was coming up on a glacier field. While beautiful I had no intention of trying to move through it alone, I headed left to continue on the ridge between the Hotlum-Wintun Glaciers.

The sun rose peaking out above some low level clouds bathing me and the mountain in warmth and light as I continued up the ridge between the second and third largest glaciers on the mountain. The north side of Wintun glacier seemed to be more like a giant sheet of ice with fins that stuck up above the snow, where as the Hotlum glacier was much rougher looking with deep crevasses both exposed and hidden.  (I am actually not sure that I was ever near the Wintun glacier, I think it was further to the southwest)



Shark-fin like ice that probably was not Wintun Glacier   
Hiking/climbing at altitude is difficult. I fully understand that my cardiovascular system is not as strong as it used to be or could be, but I was still amazed at how hard it was to chip away at those vertical feet. The last few hours of the ascent I could take no more than 20 steps at one time without having to stop and rest for about a minute. For my next high altitude adventure I plan to bring an O2Sat monitor, and maybe wear my heart rate monitor with my GPS watch. It will be interesting to see some of the acute physiological changes as I push myself in such an environment as Mt. Shasta.
GPS watch ran out, the red took 5 hours, the black took 6 hours




One of many crevasses on the Hotlum Glacier
I had set for myself a number of safety guidelines that I would hold to during this adventure, one of which was to be headed off the mountain by 12pm with the goal of being back at my car between 2-3pm. When at 11:45am I encountered a solid sheet of ice extending up towards the summit I realized that the best thing to do was turn around and head home. I am at this point not experienced enough, nor do I have the correct equipment to continue on ice alone. It was not with a sense of regret or disappointment that I chose to turn around, but rather a sense of relief; I was tired and the allure of the summit will never be greater than my respect and fear of the danger that encompasses such an endeavor.
Solid ice stymied my path so close to the top 






While descending can be much faster (10.5hrs vs. 3.5hrs) it is more dangerous than the ascent assuming one does not have any problems with acute mountain sickness, in which case descending is the best thing to do. I took the opportunity of the decent to practice self-arresting with the ice axe. Depending on the degree of the slope and the consistency of the snow or ice an unexpected slip, fall, or simply tripping over your crampons can potentially send you sliding very very quickly down the mountain. Practicing these techniques (safely) is well worth the time. It can also provide a quick way to descend a large portion of the mountain. By 3:15 I was back at my car eager to get my backpack and boots off.


So Close
Next time I adventure on the mountain I would like to spend one or two nights so that I might be able to take things more slowly having more time to explore different areas of the mountain.
No camera is good enough to replicate the real thing

Sunday, June 15, 2014

Castle Lake to Castle Crags


There is not much to say about this trip. I needed to get away from Sacramento and work for a little while, I didn’t have too much time… so I sacrificed sleep and left around 12:45AM. I drove to Castle Lake, parked, and then hiked to the ridge above Heart Lake in order to watch the sun peak out from behind Mt. Shasta. It was beautiful, and even the first weak rays brought warmth to my chilled body.

I had always figured that it would not be too difficult to hike from Castle Lake to the Castle Crags, and for the most part I was able to cut over without too much difficulty. There were little dear trails, rocky patches, and breaks in the Manzanita brush here and there that allowed me to cut over without having to wade through too much brush.
10.13K round trip
While I was able to find my way through, there is no denying that the land is rough and wild out there. The Manzanita brush seemed to stymie my progress at every turn, the cold wind bit at any exposed skin while finding any chink in my armor to steal my warmth, and the thin air silently taxed my system like a parasite always demanding more and more. Granite spires would shoot up blocking my path, and I would turn only to find a cliff around the next corner. I couldn’t help but think of Saruman’s words from The Fellowship of the Ring:

“And if that fails, where then will you go? If the mountain defeats you, will you risk a more dangerous road?”
There was plenty of danger for me, and being alone, I was careful to ask myself questions like?
    -If you fell here.. would you die?
    -If you climb up that.. could you safely climb back the same way?
    -If you twist your knee or ankle here, how far is help?

It is amazing how what can be described as rough, brutal, harsh, and unforgiving can at the same time be described as beautiful and breathtaking.

“Safe? Who said anything about safe? ‘Course He isn’t safe, but he is good. –Mr. Beaver, The Lion, The Witch, and The Wardrobe

While the hike was good fun and good exercise the best part of the day was yet to come. After relaxing in my hammock at the edge of the lake and eating some typical Eric food, I headed down to my friends the Fritzke’s house. How wonderful is it to have friends and family on whom you can knock on the door unexpectedly and be invited in for meals, fellowship, and a place to rest a weary body and mind. Mt. Shasta truly is a second home for me. While I do enjoy the wild outdoors, spending time with people will always be more fulfilling for me, and it was certainly the highlight of my impromptu trip.
[As I was slapping myself in the face and biting my fingers in order to stay awake, I decided that the most dangerous part of the trip was driving back to Sacramento]

Sunday, May 25, 2014

Rest and Relaxation?


I have been at my new job in Sacramento, CA for nearly five weeks now. I was hired into the intensive care (ICU) float pool at UC Davis Medical Center. I am being trained to work in the Medical ICU and the Medical Specialty ICU. The process of being hired to the Medical Center was difficult and slowed by the incapacity of the CA board of Nursing. Six days before the potential job start date, I still did not have my CA license; when I did receive my license it left me precious little time to find housing in Sacramento. Thankfully I was able to arrange to live with a family in Rancho Cordova while I sought housing of my own and tired to get my feet underneath me.
The other four nurses that were hired with me into the  Patient Care Resources department
There is a beauty and a curse to working twelve-hour shifts. It is great to have such an extended period of time to be immersed in patient care, it is wonderful to have such a block of time to try to take in the immense amount information that I am expected to know. It is also great to have extended periods off from work. For example if I am fortunate to work three days in a row at the beginning of a week, and then three days at the end of the following week, I am left with a significant block of free time. The down side to working three twelve-hour shifts are difficult for some of the same reasons. As a new graduate nurse I am constantly vigilant and constantly stimulated (over stimulated) by the shear volume of information and responsibility that has been handed to me. I come away mentally exhausted. Twelve hours of work does not allow much time for anything else in the day, and three twelve’s in a row means that the next day I might be pretty useless. I have been taking the light rail train from Rancho Cordova into the city for work, and then back, which means that my twelve hour day is really a fifteen hour day.

When I am able to find breaks in my schedule, I cherish them, and try to spend them wisely.

Last week I had the privilege of having six days off in a row. My friend Steven happened to get in touch with me a few days before the break began and asked it I wanted to go camping for a few days down by Mt. Whitney with him and his friend Trevor who had also worked at Kidder Creek in the summers before us. The timing was perfect and it would have been criminal to say no, three days later I was off on an adventure into the eastern sierras.
Excited to be out in God's beautiful creation
We met up at Lone Pine, a small town that probably generates a significant portion of its income from people coming to climb and camp in the mountains around Mt. Whitney. I was charged with the task of obtaining the wilderness permit that we would need for our backpacking trip, unfortunately a combination of not leaving early enough and unexpected traffic placed me in Lone Pine after the ranger station had closed. The slight hiccup in our plans did not derail us, and we decided to drive up to Horseshoe Meadows for our first night of camping.

Horseshoe Meadow is vast, beautiful, and a destination in its own right, however we had our sights set higher. The meadow provided us with a safe place to store food in a bear locker, access to our trailhead, and perhaps most importantly the opportunity to acclimate as the meadow sits at an elevation of 10,000 ft. After camp had been set up, an evening campfire, and a chat with a gentleman camping nearby, we dosed the fire and turned in for the night.

I was thankful for the rising sun, for the night had been colder than expected, and my lost and found sleeping bag was not quite up to the task. Steven had volunteered to head down the mountain to the ranger station in order to obtain a permit, while Trevor and I prepared our gear and food for the coming days. Steven arrived back, and a short while later we hit the trail for a destination above the tree line.
Ice in Nalgene after a night a 10,000ft
On the way to High Lake
The Sierra Nevada mountain range is beautiful; running north to south it covers a vast area of land and contains some of the most beautiful landscapes in California. While the eastern side of the Sierras can be desert like, it still can be overwhelmingly beautiful.

We hiked through forests and meadows, over boulders and along creeks until arriving at High Lake at an elevation of 11,500 located at the base of New Army pass. Now above the tree line with the daylight quickly leaving us we set out to find the best wind sheltered area for what we knew would be an even colder night. Once shelter was established we turned our attention to food. A hot meal can go a long way, and it is always nice to have a story to pass the time.
Trevor reading The Horse and His Boy
The night was indeed cold and a cutting wind did not help the situation. Morning came early with the sunrise and gave me the courage to brave the elements in order to relieve my bladder. We decided to forgo a hot breakfast in an effort to save time; after some hardboiled eggs, tortillas and peanut butter we began our assent towards the summit of Mt. Langley.

Mt. Langley stands at 14,026 ft (although the plaque at the top says 14,042 ft.), it is the 9th tallest peak in CA. Less than an hour into our summit attempt we encountered what was likely the most dangerous aspect of the trip, second only to the ever present danger of acute mountain sickness.
At the ridge top with the cornices in the background 
When the wind blows over a ridge it creates a back flow, an eddy, immediately behind the ridge. Snow carried by the wind accumulates in this wind break, and dangerous cornices (overhangs) can form at the top. While none of us were prepared for snow travel, we were able to find an area without a cornice, and decided to make a go for it. We concluded that if we were significantly uncomfortable ascending this pitch, then we would abandon the route and seek an alternative, for we knew that it would be even more difficult and dangerous to down climb in the warmer afternoon. Thankfully, we were able to safely make the ridge.

Steven coming over the ridge
The remainder of the hike to the summit was fairly uneventful, perhaps nothing more than long and wearisome. Like Ben Stiller in the movie The Secret Life of Walter Mitty we had to make oxygen decisions, therefore we did not dilly dally to long here or there, nor spend too much time talking. The views were still spectacular and there were innumerable marmots scurrying around the rugged landscape.

One thing that was special was the opportunity to chat with different individuals that we came across during our time in the outdoors. Each time that we met an individual or couple both parties stopped to talk with each other. I think it is as much about having common interests as it is about looking out for your fellow hiker. I was especially impressed with a couple that hiked out of their way to meet us as we were resting in the wind break of a large rock. It was nice to chat and give them advice about which way to descend. It was also fun to see names of those that we had met along the way inscribed in the notebook that was in the ammo box at the summit.

The summit, wind striped, barren, and cold, provided beautiful views of the surrounding valleys and mountains.

The hike down was much quicker than the hike up and we were all thankful to arrive safely back at camp, especially after descending the snowfield.
The slow and careful decent
This was my first 14,000ft summit and while it left me exhausted heading back into work, it also left me wanting more of the mountains and wilderness that God has created.
At the summit  
Lenticular clouds at sunset
Looking down on the half froze High Lake
and our tent tucked in behind the rocks